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朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNUvzQHv8wH
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBiSiKwjdLN
「這麼早？」旭仔問。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ07Qzj1czhL
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhMSP0zsCAu
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡc24urGCGU7
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9qDFGneqHn
「是啊，要趕路了。」496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡODnFqh4e1y
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtYXRzPRzbZ
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvQMBcpGFNl
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡS8ZxAe073F
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfC0kHmE3gZ
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWRDMS21f0K
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0tVSYLBqIE
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUQU3ggptah
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVl1W2R2dQn
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvOXKXdJCZ9
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ34jtRNt8zy
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXgZNYc6PYq
「謝謝你。」496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPiV3WkuMHA
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5CnuT96Sgf
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjSj2plo5vA
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQ9BavUpDVb
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNLf1UjOFPG
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhVnEVPyhzy
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMCOlfojVz9
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNPnLEkIrJk
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrlzJg0jgEL
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8upIMHMJWT
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7xOo59FMJL
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGs2YDUOex2
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyWdoXCvAYR
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUcAvKOe3Wm
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtpAe7Bl2F3
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLRhfdt1NLt
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPQrNMkVLO7
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡK8jjOq7uv3
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2pJmhuk5QO
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡylSss0F6pT
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDjw0zWYICO
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbRBTvUvAnS
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡt8rHnt2bBn
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZFEgZBaopT
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhaesbCqJXJ
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhsbB27qYSh
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5UIV97AjqO
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡg8dGaqjfAb
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMSWC6J2zg8
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSNS9tgrgWL
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqLGtrV3mkZ
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnZ8VPERpAy
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡn2TtMoY35n
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpWdVuc13PT
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzvsWAnmxHf
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8zka46wrWm
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡD4kUoeh0CR
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡq8T7SpPu2Y
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZVoKzl2qB4
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6U2pHehth2
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡC3nF0UXkqE
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbt7FDZ4Sul
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlU1yyzsQ6L
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ36YHJfbfBd
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNaGVJs2ahO
「是的。」496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUUdys70Rj9
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDhYYgtdgPV
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡp5FmFvnDBC
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUl09vumjxN
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4r8ujJgO6K
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhkjm8U126l
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhUkb5hhjhb
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuDToibvnIa
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYytXqG00ec
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHnnErkmQNS
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9bDsDOrgTR
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhlOO7dKySE
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSM7BqkmRJJ
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZLQrxnp9gA
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxFvft6wtCh
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxKVBXnE5Aa
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsqvK4nnaRL
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzYum7nCGoi
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡw8ZueRZoPZ
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiogiDb7GKW
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeChENLXLKi
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyVPKruzBdm
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEaBNczFU1g
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgXyW5t6cNj
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqwe0GPLSzz
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJC6F8SyHNZ
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyfLwBPmzIz
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkRkZcBAeSY
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlK23dBGN4b
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTHvEvYeYh8
「太好了！」496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡw5OBOABNHK
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIpprsdXATv
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqPYKkJ5JPn
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoXUzTGKhbD
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMbGKNpSaPC
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡA7GYVe9CaB
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ17uXpQFUL2
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡajeoVLFOUL
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcx9VaDAYTX
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmK2Sd8mSIn
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVXlHobT8pp
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoh7xHqPsTh
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuDQjFaNTQf
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5YsMNujKOv
「好。」旭仔答。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgRYmcBWmWs
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvAHZ7KHH5S
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrRXBFddl4s
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaQlnNFLg3j
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡF9BbgNYxF3
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7e2IwudNY8
旭仔淺嘗一口。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSSwWIvufpr
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡObEolWDfPX
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3olYGqG757
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ39bmGzOk3z
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡP3zGHpGiFx
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡp6kwOXuS2H
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAuoDXTtW1p
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrfsHhH41DT
「好喝。」旭仔答。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmeRHAfapm8
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKD0jwvenGM
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0loeDZx4UR
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡR1gRpxL0Rs
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiNqsrvHnY5
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrOTcvDT1pp
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7KCYntA5sV
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVAYb0Fho3Z
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8NFYHDdIGZ
496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhHz04Z8axq
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。496Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzYizHyjjlJ
