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朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡN2vDbzT0Ys
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeFCFWFl55P
「這麼早？」旭仔問。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiewd4wY3Xd
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡym18mJvrqA
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡH4bDOYnWAS
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ99U8SPR6wN
「是啊，要趕路了。」504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIuEuyowQIg
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡix0AhJYA2Q
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgoKKoxKK07
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡj690PXS6h5
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnr2d2kqwIT
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡS3UBQmysSo
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUqfJTPHGMP
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAs511IEM2F
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNnRzyt4s6u
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVVeVsZK3Qb
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTsmCIy2fOi
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVxPvc0VFwz
「謝謝你。」504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6VvH0t3WW7
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIatXFKNpLe
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxOEdP3NXIR
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiZTQSJepC4
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡATa3P6PWto
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgueCYTaRHm
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEPkCbMLJp8
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeDO9KWOvkE
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9MLAxjx8xn
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5dNp7hn5z2
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJQgipznbod
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEuxO4xbdaS
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQ5DTxEPy6t
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLNIJpYvFQa
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJ1SocaQKBC
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuODTRYtfw6
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxUEHMUl7vI
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaDaicU8jZc
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIOLGR0E9Zo
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡP9PU2mos8R
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5vMYAYMjjc
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfejdozrOeI
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKp7M47KPSG
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ04k3J3OA0e
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKtz9dklccL
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsNrlkL05Po
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡt6dAPzihvH
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZQKiOQcuyH
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHJwgChTUSs
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡc1X8ZKjJQ6
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbEmLHejQw5
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKO3EBK5MAr
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4ypRd8uyO1
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1N3EALsZA2
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZHoZr1p7JT
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDopMWfA1YO
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaPKS53qeyQ
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvqjw1ToCXI
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoX3dhoF2xZ
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6aSRm2Ynon
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbfwI0j4P40
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡs7I9n9ecdf
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDmJoiFrLAp
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiNevkK9d0F
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡocIuvkErWD
「是的。」504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡO2RbkjgL01
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkt1WkTqbTC
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbkTsynTMSl
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡic7ZiwRJOm
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHrDtGnr99W
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡG5pXOUa0DU
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4SPHzSHW2s
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGSFPrd5eUh
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡE3PFlJeHzg
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrOMPjPsTRq
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoRboQ4LLiA
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6gQlpWZIOD
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5vzmSD3orZ
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXBH2AKZtDg
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEN0fBbAwwR
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGmkibtNbab
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMGqP4mhUZg
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiih0hcOobE
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVRgziVqpa7
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjokFivQlW0
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDjBxebC4Fy
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtHu2JPKn9Q
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYBCjTHY6tZ
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2vP6RhXKng
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgLIDlpSDK7
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIRMO5oHGSp
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQoMFzN9txO
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAWmEg6GaMA
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡY3iPueufZ5
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdh3QhoqI4C
「太好了！」504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvIO6nL9R5M
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwNKZU6aVlV
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxW9XPEck6z
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6tet5wXgK1
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9kQVkWqLkt
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzOMLb8ng0Z
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnB7lOkteD4
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYunBc3SGrh
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrwQiUyi0We
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXG0uc6kmHb
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPXoPWWYDQc
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGu7p3wWnL6
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFqa8yZczP2
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡF5mCgD3j3z
「好。」旭仔答。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwNnaX72KdE
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4XnouhVQWS
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCw57i2imek
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡB2tca9tmg5
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡn9wbJ0qITv
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYyqf60Ouqb
旭仔淺嘗一口。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡR2i8oDrq0W
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXFCbQJRJLR
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1Z1NvImXlB
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKb9VSECwwN
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQTxpTSTGtj
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡi5RVIIA99c
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzisqJWGd4H
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxgEfDSYeN6
「好喝。」旭仔答。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRbYpFKcxCT
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡp4T6yAfb9j
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsyqFDwueAe
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIcmJqdPF6O
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡn2zgech2VH
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBDd4nGCPyu
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAKmRFcoqt0
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡF56CTct6cu
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ976XYG6r1h
504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3JXVsJ9iNB
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。504Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmELZrjkwkj
