x
朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3iZipAiWeK
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLAyCBVG6ag
「這麼早？」旭仔問。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmvfcQb42ok
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdlTfxhrUE8
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwxVYvujvxf
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlOA8fGIY7C
「是啊，要趕路了。」482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoDhHDCQ92b
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQOGkkZ5yNV
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAZehvWWc45
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBVqbb8SlW7
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡF3CYMlwqkt
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBqrvEITEf4
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGeIRVQQuzi
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlZ15pgFpXC
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdK5VjeIg0q
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡABI3mR7aPf
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1TdoMPFUFC
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEQgYiIVM2q
「謝謝你。」482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡX9IILkPQj5
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4LhhZ4hPHC
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKZNbhSj59H
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8dNmebKA2a
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLodDAatOBT
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHUORJryBoH
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgao374ilET
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTUSEcXSdOH
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtaXV5l0M6C
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmckyE59ITX
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVwVLDYuui4
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPmBsAzHLju
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ82iAy68ahh
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2NKGPh1Lbc
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsSAB1dnKxj
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRjJ20pn2ty
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFkTNDnsYGN
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCQW21LQc5X
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEXgITgSfPv
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqYjmyYgu28
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡL4YmyFFHbn
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4eZCQSyTRa
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJuSozC1Vny
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjm4qTUPYRF
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡv7PxLHzTUD
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAC1t1PUZjt
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrJl36zib6h
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡygTd5ImY00
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbvx5LFqBkk
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVBsKRkuQv7
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJSLZPzIfX0
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmdUXr4p0hy
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdfQml95kFe
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMd6SwwBPsP
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYTdk7nuFC9
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsrifCEofaE
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZ1qq12P5PJ
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡE8F0Wtk8TU
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2lr0PPGIzZ
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8ZKw46rQXi
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkrnXFrdmc6
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyzSvwqb4fK
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcajarHebhk
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFjNWdUwYYB
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpoXWP1H4XW
「是的。」482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7398RYtw5K
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzkb7SbhZct
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdnMl9XKujU
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ38ADeO063i
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDZJfqcT49E
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlt6267PVj8
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBcc5vKVkDC
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7ykFpRpdZL
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxx3qpqILeb
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8nb2rWCSze
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡo8UJC8yt5w
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQtcTrxNHQi
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3oRrOEqcOU
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1FyMNgvLvg
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4qetOMUW7O
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfAkA4WzkBj
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLsMnFdh9Qu
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDTUhFHW9hd
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUHG4uOI0kj
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9i6OBLTQd1
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAjBhwGWtkr
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjSM17BY1YJ
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡh6tkvkkeM9
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡb6mJyYQCGi
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4MYS9nC0zO
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8oZfXAgBrm
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnUSpWN7Ur8
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJEFT4AQbfd
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6XLpuJCvY6
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQqiuCillYm
「太好了！」482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgMEwG3VybB
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpQMBiVqeuv
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpV8aF4tjRi
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2Tf7WfiOau
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3YP9kT0aZr
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIbJuP6yFKm
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeMZKhljnhu
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4qRMfJSdOq
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgmcWpGflgR
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDmlWJbM778
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5ftJIdBaIK
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡu7YBRWA4Ba
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ29ZNafgHZy
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQGXArEYcYt
「好。」旭仔答。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡImoIQdAtmY
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdCu8rqh3Em
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZEkEfaCqXA
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAoNWzaXUMB
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrOV5UNE34S
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡesvT5nno9N
旭仔淺嘗一口。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡH2r8CRciM8
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqtsPjZe0q2
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡR4EnWA9nVS
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡapFAyUYbP4
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡC0eld9a8PC
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdoOVG1zQ5U
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoLV3vpXjkF
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtkA9InsyGJ
「好喝。」旭仔答。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0HyQt4gDog
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsTm30Z0zTh
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnJrVUtxQJQ
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4S9g9ofJfk
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3zvgcMGFs0
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHh3iPv9W8F
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlxuiWB2fUj
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ29YUIYa4aB
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkUBPwNn8zf
482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyJd5Itp6mg
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。482Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡE5Yvgd5NrE
