朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpMxQEFp6VS
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNeM88qcJDk
「這麼早？」旭仔問。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8OyszS2HdG
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEHGHqz2qka
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNQ6qMfNDLq
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxoEWxg79ql
「是啊，要趕路了。」637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7SCYSBpu1C
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKZSVQKNO0t
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFk9pceuiXG
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2DrhQJgjkX
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ05eDzKPfyA
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTrpq86s113
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCPoC3Wr3Pe
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡK9RFUG21kd
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUJbsWE3ONQ
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5gv08Cg7Y6
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4dntfIKm3P
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYjbApAyIcC
「謝謝你。」637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiL6XMYSDHv
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyMbPWiLEar
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡooaIYWyI0o
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHQ6mDDzJIb
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbnYGvHoNva
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTuDpvtn447
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmoMZz9kfp6
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡN2Tx7DWUxN
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1jRcPTkr9q
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbROW3DWLAJ
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5oDcHSkEQb
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡysuGqqNQoq
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIMeUgt7nW3
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5YvuVxViii
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxLV0QSLA4N
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLEoZx6U6ej
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWzufRvVfnK
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ44ZWqGzu6b
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxkOyF3JgM4
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDwHfVyVmdE
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2GGCbyLx21
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgHlEKOt1bJ
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtnUETf47WX
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOq6nr3Z15E
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡb4lTp4CNWr
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLMJGiUot5A
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡISOQHPtsFW
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQ7nRgulDwf
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwOKszVoT9k
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuS4F6ijyjE
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡX1RRSc8NAr
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1zTLfTH9tZ
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4kQdkQteqh
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsYP3mm5Vkn
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaut1yBEEpy
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ26nzbFnoEh
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyAa3ii9Xze
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8AUfV2uluI
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVWjmvBl2RF
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSN9Iao7iYq
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDnKKlFhmye
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6alf90Mcbv
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzcA5hU4zTL
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdCWvX1uBU4
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUsExcm9sJn
「是的。」637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmnHryPjStL
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4cWKwIDxUi
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNl8DQdJcN6
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzmu1WWFzJg
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMbSzVtml4U
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFHB0kogpQl
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡg7c0dZWymk
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmmxdAtrqqW
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuCC4jnFKVj
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡu61P88aIdg
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfpJkzd3CEQ
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0opC6DDiGp
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrxzlxJZEns
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5DZVBUyh9X
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjhbhZwwuxc
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcmPe9Ina7N
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡM2VRBEseLW
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLSsoiuWnw1
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2rMKF7vPO6
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYT9tnI6kHd
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzfwJG9LQ5F
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwbqBse4ZLl
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ54rpx2yjzY
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZ6p6Q7RFgX
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKvIMqPaVVb
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcLarjgVIe3
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqwNb5pP1NN
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0m4m7sZhlS
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlVQ5FaHfXO
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrPcM75UPQb
「太好了！」637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCRaGsW6RGM
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9Ey9E2Cp5F
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡD8Qn5i4n67
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡv6PihNCBl0
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgPD7jnrpYe
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlrwdSsD5Yj
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFGuQvH3N5r
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZnGXNm7RfU
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡX3U1bGdoAw
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfmAoihRPsG
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvM143ksPKE
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcO7pqvC9cL
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡV2VHLJ2QIU
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbeVpR5lXSn
「好。」旭仔答。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhDuUcB1KqL
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZJ8HrtRci5
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTQvSawlFTT
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7dxZDXLFb3
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0XXwqFU7Av
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmGuVlO9mmr
旭仔淺嘗一口。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSucaWjE7j4
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKwk8sBe8XE
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlEDKQLS20w
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOplKAumJJv
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5jlhx6bNXa
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTGaX4qyPcI
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡG9ezCwGGlc
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3dtablPtrc
「好喝。」旭仔答。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3TjslUvtmx
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbuRYGCUbDX
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡc9fn6mcXhy
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiuW3aCHXv2
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpuAdg6Quux
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡC0rr3EPWeQ
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡulCEq8pibH
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡG9yPBGF8uX
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLTddTypKs8
637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQhb5D7QOin
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。637Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoiLtUEYp4k
