x
朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlb5xshlELA
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQHiIhIEiyM
「這麼早？」旭仔問。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJ4zN7ML42m
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMajZyIqPD4
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡr0qZNi08NR
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHuxmKte3xN
「是啊，要趕路了。」508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡheL6nLaSL7
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRgVql58eBF
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0H7tj2dnGh
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVbbSUzoyOr
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOyjJIU2n4A
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4kdryikybl
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡppXPTyiOw0
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1XQvQ9oVnp
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNotguqsiRk
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡs0WVgtDw5X
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡocWyy7D6Gc
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjxhLBAUWgb
「謝謝你。」508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOdxKNJ0za0
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeJG7z32402
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4EQjkNQJnk
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqihn9yaguO
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0mz4K1eetX
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgZOjIQZRdx
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzVj7dOqLZ2
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUB1HJtmd1k
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡo2WA1BqY0X
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCEpu2xdhk8
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxF8lUZxv0t
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1BWcOcMfaN
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMm4fXkOdm1
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAE10GgPqFe
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSsAh437xF3
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHONu4XEYhi
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtJLpUgdfws
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQALAYCbsej
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBGy85Q8kIL
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2p72fh0oTr
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzi1pMwnm5O
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoX1Q5fQ286
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbo9jvD9xjd
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZzwX116JvE
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOZq1ZyiMFf
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDMwj15gAWN
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtyHzQrZlwz
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ13BwGLCy0b
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtBratpulNO
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTcAcnciGcT
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrZvDutLzO3
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYtbETGYCHM
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvFLUg6o4uL
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6NzOmb9d6m
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxqy0Z99UD9
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiPhRk6DVRA
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmzFYUmJnhF
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOT821wx5He
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjDPFuuihFr
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡE3Dvnvtpra
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡe41vwUdVwF
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3lVzBh3D2z
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSLgBkwZ56i
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIwnrhXZjhI
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxqJ3rZtlIa
「是的。」508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHYXe0htpzG
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2q2Y7UTekQ
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡL6UYRS6MAc
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCc8tGAqTYS
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4IoJnSV8OM
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfMAlUevZfd
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJe1hilVPxC
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiS2M9YDZXv
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0fAkAlhr93
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZi2ImO9QXL
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSbxU90u0qq
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4LU9DlVKVF
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡocnlj716n4
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrgZ5Utjk9T
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqSM05ju5hM
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡppd7Nd5UDR
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡw3Bfm9MSGy
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhqffhcEmf2
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPHH7ODhKZM
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIiwqX6YYiN
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfM53Amo03y
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbq855rzB12
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDn83NePR9O
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡM6DIJVjN44
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡznPEmpjCKc
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNL5cbapnIl
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgY0JhnEwF0
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPGKZGSOGpV
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzPvlrS7yOa
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgUjELd2MUR
「太好了！」508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgvqDqg8Q9y
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsTw1ZsHTqI
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGD9Vt5BfwC
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡllJ3r42jyP
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnuRFxqSKnj
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoCIszvi86J
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7vMyODTAV6
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5aWeJsQee5
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKZa036ZL92
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCrqZTHxLa9
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRo6HZfvLRk
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjKFo2gxh5M
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXafqHBkbZV
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2jSiauF6OF
「好。」旭仔答。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8tHYLFFphA
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡk27ajAmZvX
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ24NkRIUjHY
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1srACUtVtC
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhGJMflWsDF
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdIsLitlDDW
旭仔淺嘗一口。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXJK99ECpOc
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡukCfkow4PP
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLNFhBy3K2f
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTfZtUEZwjm
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoagY2uh5bg
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfVxq0oZjRC
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLCd1E9RQAt
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdcz4LmIuGA
「好喝。」旭仔答。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQAjGFtpzR4
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUh0r14GdFk
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡME4gFiapa1
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6rjXkob4Dv
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRty7Yh3JRV
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡN2Wo3JvVSV
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡc7h74Figtc
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡggKVSQWQY2
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXaafkv6joo
508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkyCOtMf8rx
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。508Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡh2WlJYvxyF
