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朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjJJLNToogl
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡImuHzK4QaM
「這麼早？」旭仔問。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiVnzXZS2V3
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡncYSHLPxIp
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoWTIxwqV9t
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡn5ltXsFqdc
「是啊，要趕路了。」479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvzTREjb1yn
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGa7C4bbCdH
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡI3gIufjznT
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9nXdpAlg5C
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡENM0rRG6uH
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4kW8dnCwa7
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxp8i4JvMKg
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZUvXTItenM
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmA8fTXtVpP
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWmqCNjwoOG
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeyzqaXhijz
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuBr1t7R3cN
「謝謝你。」479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwjkvammrc7
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeWV1DEuD3x
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSgslRt5atV
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVqHhcCcHOs
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhFYVovJVu2
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjJ7vV50fmm
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSzZZAKCH6X
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLkoMTnYWR4
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGXb3ZMIQVo
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSB4hLRY0RJ
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9YvBvc2750
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡE5zl5y5FQo
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡONe0reqd4b
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIkVYthYOfN
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2lkFhDm2Xw
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLb5YHYOABq
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQRMU8d0Omg
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYs1CkQRPPj
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQn1aLbDDcB
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLy6xorp8b1
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTz3QYe1lXY
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcFszUWkfk9
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHsGsFvAS7M
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxt5Gf2y7NJ
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhKcXEexOob
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbBiOG2gpy8
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRXoRsV3lm4
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZqLkIfVSUT
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpVEcgAaP2H
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡa2cgct8S3m
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOWxMUiAEd1
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlJZUQOztHJ
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9ny4EnnNUT
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4FRyqifozA
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡz031IjN3tR
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhKZV5SEkRf
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFPnI7mbz50
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGOrvogSnd4
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡutljxETNrC
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXjun6HM6lU
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcAu1bVnDhc
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWSKT7xMT9J
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqKWGeFWvyu
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ798hJggpja
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGYytgnyDyQ
「是的。」479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIKXSG5wrbh
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoymWfvaN3Z
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEROEKelaFz
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNHP3FUkS1c
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡexAvaUmrhs
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWAolwIDAQC
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnVbI8SoCYa
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡs7B70bk1i2
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmjPnKtN2i6
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFqphMts62D
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWMwlvpOv84
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9WwhvXZfGa
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdmEvnz8ef8
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡs51IB7FlQF
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTmYmhqEM7V
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡK763tntCcG
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNIwwza34uG
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZTHMTvydNP
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJXOqV5vvIA
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGT3ChuJaNL
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmNPfs7sjvr
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOnTnxG6Wht
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgvoKnBGTRT
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvE3Wh8Ib97
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrzeh5npvad
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsJ20ERFAtK
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwCegi2mp3M
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGoHo15qOl8
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ53U0amdFr3
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgfxiAnSws5
「太好了！」479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5GxKvEtA9D
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFRpugYRLor
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuddpEnbT92
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsReDl75UaG
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMchhltG295
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjgweyubfU0
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlFLC4JQo5E
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡU2N7YxU3TE
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnMbhS0X7kI
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcJooib1Qx4
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjvR60u7cOV
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEkGoycK0tN
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFE0e0bIceN
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIaBqWUkgtW
「好。」旭仔答。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhqPyy8UIHJ
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWlo02uxmzR
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVxLbQNBp9x
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQkU7ZWMAeG
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqB1IhRbxAa
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡimKKF5bwvP
旭仔淺嘗一口。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡE2BZxje0ND
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfM04xEJVbs
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHA5xsYTwBT
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡx7eulF0x7J
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQMFkxoqwTV
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCjIIpuGnzZ
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡN8lolDmaUS
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdxf3MBTNQ1
「好喝。」旭仔答。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡT6aTNbplVn
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSLdkOiuita
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGYv53Lgw1d
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkNAzPFmmhp
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1IY0nGEsjU
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ69pm4jtV4j
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZvQdulp9Tx
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJSB2j6iUn7
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHtX71zVYt1
479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhGKVjKGjKS
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。479Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2l6Ymqabow
